London Wanderings: Dinner At Andrew Edmunds, Soho

Lancaster Gate

At the end of last year, when I was finally allowed to go outside again and able to walk more than about seven paces without collapsing in a pathetic heap, I started a Sunday tradition of going for a walk along the river. Gradually this seems to have evolved into spending Sundays wandering around various bits of London, before coming home for a warm bath and a hot chocolate.

At the beginning of this year, I looked through all the places I’d been bookmarking since I moved back to London four years ago, and decided to actually go to them. Most of these are either restaurants or wine bars, and almost all have been recommended either in wine magazines or by wine aficionados (which I almost shortened to ‘winos’, but nope. Different thing.) I booked myself in for one per week initially, but after the first trip I realised that (a) it would be exhausting to go out that often and (b) my budget would be completely blown after the first one each month. So I think my self-dates will have to be once a fortnight at most.

Last weekend I did the self-date on Saturday night, and the wandering around London on the Sunday. This made me exceedingly happy and meant I had a very lovely weekend, so now I’m going to try to do as much of that as possible in the coming months.

I’d been meaning to go to Andrew Edmunds in Soho ever since Tuggy from Huntsworth Wine recommended it on Instagram, and when Decanter also chose it as one of their top London wine bars I decided it was time.

The atmosphere is just beautiful. Precisely the right mix of cozy, quirky and refined. “Do you work in hospitality?” the obscenely attractive gay waiter asked me when I’d finished (and praised) my starter. I replied that I didn’t, and he explained that a lot of ‘industry people’ go there on their nights off, because of the great food and the excellent wine list.

So yes, the wine: let’s do the most important bit first. The list is extensive and includes mid- to high-end wines, at barely any markup. In general they’ve only added on the amount you’d pay if you bought a bottle at retail price, rather than the minimum £20 extra a lot of places will add to their high-end bottles.

I went for a Château Magneau Graves 2014 because it was the best red half-bottle I could find. I have now invested in an extra wine stopper which will live in my handbag along with my emergency corkscrew, so that from now on I’ll be able to order by the bottle in restaurants without having to down the entire thing with my meal.

Lancaster Gate
The walk there and back was a bit soggy, but pleasantly spookily tree-lined.

Food-wise, I began with the crispy duck, which was very good but wasn’t crispy. I was a little disappointed at the lack of crispiness, because I’m all about the texture of my food, but I got over it because it did taste very good.

I followed this with the roast sirloin main dish, which was lovely, but the star of the show was the Jerusalem artichoke which came on the side. This could easily have been a dish in its own right, and it made me want to go back and just order a plate of that. I very much want to try to replicate it at home, but I have not the slightest idea how to try.

I didn’t take any pictures of the food because I was too busy eating it. Sorry not sorry.

Finishing off with a ginger pudding with butterscotch sauce was another excellent choice; I am a bit of a sticky toffee pudding connoisseur, and this was the closest thing to that on the menu. I washed it down with the only cognac on the spirits list, which was very good – a Château Marignon, I believe. It’s worth noting that the spirits list is pretty short and they only do two whiskies (one of which is a Teeling, so at least you have a nice flavourful option) – Andrew Edmunds are all about the wines.

Possibly my favourite thing about the evening was that I never felt rushed. After each course the waiter asked if I wanted to wait a bit before the next one: encouraging breaks between courses is something that’s hardly ever done, especially in London and especially when you’re dining alone. It can often feel like you’re meant to gulp stuff down as quickly as possible before grabbing the bill and leaving, which doesn’t make for a relaxing dining experience. Here, however, you’re encouraged to chill the hell out, which after all is kind of the point.

Plaque commemorating James McBey
One of the depressing things about walking around West London is the number of plaques that are like “HAHAHAA REMEMBER WHEN ARTISTS COULD AFFORD TO LIVE HERE LMAO IN YOUR DREAMS BITCH”

By the end of the evening I’d made friends with the waiter to the extent that he brought me a little taster of one of the wines he’d been serving earlier – an absolutely beautiful Madiran Château Montus 2012. That’s what I’d recommend if you’re going, especially if there are enough of you to get through a whole bottle. The waiter also recommended the De Toren ‘Fusion V’ Cabernet Sauvignon Blend from the South African section of the list, and based on his other recommendations I’d be inclined to trust his judgement.

All in all, it was an excellent evening and it came to about £80 including service. I was a bit sozzled by the time I left and I ended up leaving a tip on top of that: “You don’t need to leave a tip, darling, service is included” said the waiter as I stood up to leave, and I sort of hadn’t realised that because I hadn’t wanted to look too hard at the bill, preferring just to hand over my card and hope for the best. I tried to style it out and pretend I’d deliberately left an extra tip, but that probably seemed a bit strange and now I’m convinced the waiter probably thinks I’m an arsehole who likes to flash my money around and so I can never go back.

You should go, though. It’s absolutely lovely.

St Volodymyr
St Volodymyr hangs out in Holland Park

I wandered home in the drizzly rain, the statue of St. Volodymyr tracking my progress. He was the ruler of Ukraine from 980-1015, and his statue can be found on the main road between Holland Park and Notting Hill stations. It commemorates (yes it did take me three tries to spell that correctly) the establishment of Christianity in Ukraine, which St. Volodymyr undertook in 988.


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